After experiencing the stunning Baroque architecture of Lecce and ethereal beauty of Ostuni, one could be forgiven for thinking the medieval Grottaglie is a not worth a visit. You would be very wrong. Where the two former cities are outwardly gorgeous, Grottaglie’s beauty lies within the workshops of the talented ceramic artisans found there. We arrived without much of a plan except to seek out the ceramic shops and got a little lost straight away. After one of our many broken Italian conversations with a local coffee bar owner, we found a winding desolate road complete with graffiti covered buildings and crabgrass that lead us to our destination. Perusing through the incredible amount of colorful pieces was exhilarating. Some were extremely intricate while others were simple yet beautiful in their color and shapes. The shop owners were very glad to talk about their creations and help with choosing items that we wanted to gift or keep for ourselves. With the wide array of choices, it proved difficult to choose but we managed to add to our collection of travel finds nonetheless.
They say that “travel broadens the mind”, I believe that to be true. However, I also think it broadens the heart. At Palazzo Margherita, the Francis Ford Coppola 9-room property that resides in his grandfather’s birthplace of Bernalda, Basilicata, the warmth from the staff and locals certainly prove me right in this regard. Located inconspicuously along a main road in Bernalda, Palazzo Margherita is easy to miss. The attached Cinecitta Bar is easier to find and the palazzo’s doors are right next door. Entering the building brings you straight into the courtyard where you are greeted with a drink of your desire (we opted for the house specialty "Ciccio" garnished with herbs from their garden) and snacks such as assorted nuts, fried fava beans and Taralli (Puglia’s answer to the pretzel). Directly behind the courtyard you will find an expansive and gorgeous garden that supplies the kitchen with various herbs and vegetables. Trellised pathways lead the way to the "Garden rooms" as well as the relaxing pool area complete with a bar hidden within the greenery of the garden. It’s an exquisite example of a 19th century Italian palazzo’s grounds.
Immersing yourself into the culture should be a part of any trip. At Palazzo Margherita, they provided a complimentary and intimate cooking lesson where we made fresh pasta. Three different shapes (Orchiette, Cavatelli and Fusilli) from a strictly flour and water dough. The pasta was then cooked and served in a fresh tomato sauce with basil and grated ricotta salata. An extremely delicious and fun experience. So much so that we purchased the flour at a local shop to try our hand at it back home. Follow my Instagram for word on our progress.
In addition to the beautiful grounds, the interior exudes the majesty of 19th century architecture and decor. From marble steps and painted ceilings to carved armoires and glass chandeliers, the atmosphere feels true to its roots and makes standing on the room’s balcony overlooking the town of Bernalda a transcendental experience. Of course, this being a property owned by film director Francis Ford Coppola, there is a salon that can be transformed into a cinema room upon request where you are able to choose from a wide array of handpicked films (many are in Italian or subtitled in English) to enjoy. We decided on the classic Cinema Paradiso for a late night viewing complete with Negronis. Unforgettable!
Food is always an important part of our travel experience and it excelled here. Dining at Palazzo Margherita offers very authentic regional cuisine which you can enjoy in the courtyard, eat in kitchen, garden or Cinecitta Bar. As mentioned before, a lot of the vegetables and herbs used in the cooking are sourced from the garden. All protein is sourced locally. In addition to the meals available at the hotel, we also tried some local restaurants in the town. Most notably, La Locandiera, the family owned and operated trattoria just down the street from the hotel. We were warmly greeted and enjoyed some really well executed traditional dishes. Of course, gelato is a must and the gelateria right next door to Palazzo Margherita was incredible. All of the gelato is hand crafted and we enjoyed the flavor of the day which was pear and ricotta, as well as others.
An afternoon stroll through the town of Bernalda....
One of the best things about traveling for us has always been about interaction with the people that live, work and play in the area that we are visiting. In Bernalda, it was no different. Thanks to the staff at Palazzo Margherita, we were able to visit a family of cheese makers as they started their daily production. Caseificio Il Mastello produces fresh mozzarella, burratta, ricotta and caciocavallo everyday and we had the pleasure of sampling a lot of these. Emphasis on A LOT! A cheese storm at 8:30 AM can be overwhelming but we powered through. Lactose intolerance be damned!
After our morning visit to the local cheese shop we jumped in our rental car and headed out for a day of sightseeing. We drove to Matera (a 45-minute drive) to meet up with our wonderful private guide, Anna, also arranged by Palazzo Margherita. The “sassi” of Matera is an incredible sight. Used in films that require biblical settings such as "The Passion of the Christ", Matera’s historical center consists of dwellings that are carved directly into rocky cliffs and is considered the first human settlements created in Italy. Anna grew up in Matera and her mother lived in the “sassi” district when it was considered the embarrassment of Europe for its poverty and slum like appearance. Today, however, the “sassi” drives tourism and in fact has become a hip trendy neighborhood that costs a pretty penny to live in. To make Matera that much more enjoyable, we had a fantastic lunch at Articolo21 where we dined on more delicious local dishes.
Some of our dishes at Articolo21 in Matera..
Before heading back to Bernalda, we stopped at the Crypt of the Original Sin. Located in a natural cave and known as "the Sistine Chapel of the Rupestrian art". The Crypt was discovered in 1963 by a group of local youths. Upon entering the cave you are asked to sit on the stony ground as a narrator explains the 9th century frescoes by the artist known as "The Flower Painter" depicting scenes from the Old and New Testament that are individually lit to highlight them. It’s an interesting history lesson that is only enhanced by the location and atmosphere. You must be escorted by a guide in order to visit so be sure to make a reservation in advance. You are also not allowed to take pictures inside so below you will find some snapshots of the breathtaking surroundings when entering and exiting the site. It's a 15-minute drive from Matera and the picturesque roads along the way deserve some snapshots as well.
If you only have one day to sightsee while visiting this region, be sure to add Matera and the Crypt of the Original Sin to your itinerary. You won't be disappointed!
Lastly, before our return home we spent a couple of days in Rome. Since we had already visited Rome in the past and got all of the mandatory tourist attractions out of the way then, we chose to spend the next two days wandering the streets of Rome with no set schedule. Of course, a trip to check out the local flea market was required. We arrived as they were opening the doors and left with some purchases. For an afternoon treat, we grabbed a scoop or two of gelato at Neve di Latte and people watched in the square. No trip would be complete without scoping out one of our Anthony Bourdain influenced eateries, this time it was pizza at Bonci Pizzarium. RIP Anthony, you will be missed... I even managed to fit in a visit with an old friend and enjoyed an afternoon spritz on the rooftop of Hotel Eden just a few blocks away from the Spanish Steps. The night before our departure we made sure to take advantage of the beautiful weather Rome delivered during our visit and enjoyed a pre-dinner cocktail at the rooftop of First Luxury Art Hotel while taking in the beautiful views of city centre.
As always, we left Italy with full bellies, a smile on our face and fond memories. I look forward to exploring more of this beautiful country in the future. Leave a comment below on your favorite Italian city or experience.